郵輪從Venice/Trieste出發，走出阿德里亞海，來到希臘克里特島 Crete Island的Heraklion 港口。以前孤陋寡聞，不知此地原來竟有世上非常重要的考古遺址 ：克諾索斯皇宮 Knossos Palace 。它是在二十世紀初才被發掘出來，因而將愛琴文明的歷史再推前近千年至公元前三千年 : 史稱克里特文明或稱米諾斯文明 (Minoan Civilization)。這也是今次旅程接觸到最古老的文明遺址。它的年代相當於中國傳說中的夏朝或更早的堯舜。可與四大文明比一比。
希臘有的是神話。你應該知道亞基里斯的足踺 heel of Achilles 是致命弱點所在，或者為奧德修斯的歷險著迷 ( 有沒因此想買部Honda的 Odyssey？) 。 但有沒聽過米諾斯迷宮 Minos’ labyrinth、 特修斯的線索 Theseus’ thread，以及 伊卡洛斯的墜落 Fall of Icarus呢？ 荷馬史詩《奧德賽》描述的神話場境 Knossos Palace 兩千多年來一直沒能找到，原來正在這裡。
荷馬史詩說，這裡的國王Minos將一隻牛首人身的怪物，關在迷宮 Knossos Palace中。又命令被他打敗的雅典人要選送童男童女來祭祀怪物。於是雅典王子Theseus決定為民請命要去殺死牛怪。Minos國王的女兒因為愛上英雄的Theseus，請教迷宮的設計師之後，悄悄送給Theseus一個線團，教他在迷宮沿路放線。Theseus 入到迷屋深處殺死怪牛後，沿著線團的指引走出迷宮，並帶同公主逃離。
遺跡內牛的符號甚多 
遺跡內牛的符號甚多 
在克里特島上發掘到這座皇宮遺址時，有複雜的建築構造、雙斧的皇室記號 (說明那是皇宮)、戲牛的畫像 (牛妖畢竟是神話啊！)，以及被砍刹的少年男女骸骨 (可能用人做祭祀)。這和傳說有驚人的吻合。這座輝煌的米諾斯王宮當然只剩頽垣敗瓦，但參照著說明和地圖，仍可見其仿如迷宮：佔地約13,000平方公尺，圍繞着中心院落展開成四個翼，上下五層樓，共有1,300多間房間。Theseus要全身而退，如沒人幫助，實屬不易。
考古遺址平面圖，像迷宮嗎? 
戲牛圖 
有媒體在拍片 
皇宮有五層高
神話繼續：Minos 國王為此遷怒於設計師，將他和他的兒子Icarus 困在迷宮內。天才橫溢的設計師造成兩對蠟翅膀，和Icarus 一起飛出Knossos Palace。可惜兒子忘了父親的警告，飛得太近太陽。於是蠟翼熔化，Icarus墜下。以後Icarus’ wing 也成為一種隠喻。Minoan Civilization 當然不只是神話傳說。有興趣自己上網看看吧！
下面說說一些行程貼士。The port of Heraklion is not very friendly in transportation. But the good news is that the interested area is not big. As my cruise would leave at 18:00, I had to get back by 17:30 latest. Time was quite tight. But indeed besides the Knossos Palace and the Heraklion Archaeological museum, there is not much to see nearby. So, I guess most cruises would not stay long. Below are some tips for you if your cruise also stays here for only a few hours.
- First take free shuttle to “passenger terminal”, then walk about 20 min (or take a taxi) to town’s main square, near Heraklion Archaeological Museum (see my map below)
- Go to 克諾索斯王宮 Palace of Knossos archaeological site by bus at the main square (of course your taxi can go directly to Knossos Palace)
- Buy bus ticket at kiosk or newsstand; €3 bus fee, 5KM ; 2 to 3 buses per hour;
- Entrance fee €15; combined ticket w/Heraklion Archaeological Museum €16
- Visit Heraklion Archaeological Museum after returning by bus (it’s worthy to see)
- Explore the town by foot and back to cruise
- Lion Fountain –>shopping street –>fortress –>pier
Town Hall 
村上春樹說的希臘睡死狗 
在舊港的堡壘 
Costa 威尼斯號在後方 
在舊港的堡壘 
希臘的島，當然要有她們
As the Palace’s site is a bit remote, you should see it first. After that go back to the town and visit nearby places. The passenger terminal is then within 15-20 minute’s walk. Remember to spare some time for taking the shuttle bus from the passenger terminal to the pier where your cruise stays. There is a fortress near the old port and I found it worthy to visit, especially at the evening.
You can see my footprints here:
- Port passenger terminal –> 10 min (by foot)
- Venetian dockyards Heraklion –> 10 min
- Heraklion Archaeological Museum (near bus station to Knossos Palace) –> 5 min
- Morosini Lion’s Fountain 獅子噴泉 –> 2 min
- Saint Mark Basilica –> 2 min
- Municipal Art gallery –> 2 min
- Church of Agios Titos（Church of Saint Titus）–> 2 min
- Walk along Heraklion 購物大街 25Is Avgoustou –> 10 min
- Koules Venetian Fortress €2 –> 20 min
- Port Passenger terminal
This is a nice reference for town’s sight-seeing: https://angela51.com/heraklion/
You may be interested to my following articles:
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